Ghost nets

Richard Lombard

Case Kassenberg (Dutch), Ghost Fishing, ca. 2017.

Humans have been fishing with nets for millennia. The earliest evidence for this consists not of fibers, but rather stone and ceramic weights that were used to keep them below the surface. The nets themselves are long gone. Even a well-made one might have lasted only a year before breaking down, its organic matter returning to the nutrient cycle from whence it came.

One of the oldest discovered nets, from Antrea, was fashioned from willow bark. Found in 1913, it dates to 8540 BCE and was preserved in the clay of an ancient freshwater lake that became the modern Baltic Sea. Other ancient nets have survived in this way, too, entombed in the soft banks of a body of water. The majority of our knowledge of ropes and nets from antiquity, however, is based on images and writings. We know that fishing nets were fabricated from many natural fibers: barks, grasses, and hemp.

In the last 150 years, industrialization changed everything. A quest for lighter, stronger, more durable materials led first to mass-produced cotton nets, which dominated the fishing industry in the latter part of the nineteenth century, and into the twentieth. Then came Nylon. Apart from its slippery surface, this synthetic fiber had every property needed for a good fishing net: it was strong, it was light, but it did not float. And it was durable. Nylon did not weaken in water, and was not impacted by salt, sun, or sand. It was forever.

This brings us to ghost nets. Nylon’s permanence means that equipment made from it will survive for decades, and this makes for a big problem. In a recent study, it was estimated that fishing gear makes up about 10% of all ocean plastics, and nets are far more problematic than the much-maligned straws, bottles, and other flotsam that make up the other 90%. They continue to trap and kill marine life, transport species far into foreign ecosystems, and present a hazard for maritime navigation.

There is debate about the scale of the problem and the culpability of the bad actors involved, but there is no doubt that removing ghost nets from waterways and oceans is a good idea, as it removes a clear and present danger. Salvaging this material can also provide manufacturers with a novel supply of valuable material. A single trawling net – large enough to ensnare a commercial airliner – can contain thousands of pounds of Nylon.

Nylon has a greater value in the market than other polymers. To reclaim it from a net, however, other substances must be removed, especially the lead weights often attached to them, so that what re-enters the system is a mono-material. Once past these critical sorting measures, these former terrors of the deep become a benign commodity. But they are then cast into a sea of another sort: market forces weigh heavily on the reclamation process.

Hannah Kim, Lighting Product, 2021, econyl® fiber, leds, infrared sensors.

Recycled Nylon has identical performance characteristics as virgin material, but can be more costly to produce, and that reduces its appeal. Economies of scale are critical in this regard, and so is efficiency. One of the pioneers in this field is the Norwegian company Nofir. Founded in 2008, they set out to collect and process the discarded equipment from Norway’s fishing industry, then expanded to collect material from other markets, offering them a no-cost disposal option, but also guaranteeing them a source of low-cost raw material. One of Nofir’s customers is Aquafil, an Italian polymer producer which has been promoting Econyl® recycled Nylon fibers since 2011. The fashion industry, always in need of a good story, has responded well: hundreds of brands, including luminaries like Gucci and Stella McCartney, have chosen to incorporate the fiber in their lines – some have built their entire business on it.

On American shores, Bureo (the name is from the indigenous Mapuche language, and means “waves”) has similarly led a charge for change. Working with the fishing industry in Chile, they are creating another pipeline for net-derived Nylon. Among the first clients for their “Netplus” recycled material was the furniture maker Humanscale. Their first collaboration, the 2018 Smart Ocean office chair, incorporates almost two pounds of recycled material. The chair is a perfect example of a challenge that faces such efforts, though: it looks and performs exactly like the Smart chair that was produced before the Bureo collaboration, but is more expensive. Will consumers see the value of that unseen, unfelt difference?

The most promising solution for the future is actually a return to the past: new biodegradable polymer nets could mimic ancient ones made of natural fiber, and simply break down if lost or discarded. A number of trials have been launched in recent years – in Norway, in the English Channel, in France – and there are new initiatives coming online all the time.

Will these biodegradable nets cost more? Will they be as effective at catching fish? How often will they need to be replaced? These questions remain to be answered, but do know that they will not be made of Nylon – as that material cannot be made to biodegrade. We also know that there will be a long period of adoption. Meanwhile Nylon nets will continue to be used – and lost – in our oceans.

Nylon might not seem to even belong in the same sentence as “tradition,” but after almost a century of use the material has become the standard bearer in this industry. It is high time to either revert back to natural materials, or to break with tradition entirely and develop novel, workable solutions.


Richard Lombard is a Brooklyn-based materials specialist, writer, and curator working at the intersection of commercial, academic, and creative production. He has worked with museums (the Metropolitan Museum of Art) and auction houses (Sotheby’s), and has taught in the US (Pratt Institute, College for Creative Studies), Europe (Politecnico di Milano), and the Middle East (Virginia Commonwealth University Qatar). His current research focuses on scale – of extraction, of production, of utilization.


Brilliant Move

Brilliant Move is the Brooklyn-based creative studio of Marci Hunt LeBrun specializing in building websites on the Squarespace platform – among many other things.

I love working with small businesses, nonprofits, and other creatives to help them organize their ideas, hone their vision, and make their web presence the best it can be. And I'm committed to keeping the process as simple, transparent, and affordable as possible.

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