According to Māori oral tradition, the origin of Pāua (New Zealand abalone) is connected to Tangaroa, the powerful atua (god) of the sea. In the story, Tangaroa sets out to create a unique coat for the mollusc. Seeking unmatched beauty, he gathers the deep blues of the ocean and blends them with the fresh greens of the forest canopy belonging to his brother Tāne. He adds a gentle violet taken from the first light of dawn, a soft pink from the setting sun, and covers the whole creation with a shimmering veil of mother-of-pearl. The result is a shell of extraordinary elegance, alive with colour and light. Yet such beauty does not go unnoticed. The other creatures of the ocean become envious of Pāua’s radiant coat and, in their jealousy, attack the defenceless creature, damaging its delicate outer skin.
Seeing the suffering of his creation, Tangaroa intervenes. He understands that beauty cannot survive without protection. To safeguard Pāua, he strengthens the shell, transforming its exterior into a tough, rugged shield of muted greys, browns, and earthy tones that mirror the jagged coastal rocks. Disguised, the large black-footed pāua carries its secret beauty throughout its life, revealing its artistry only at the end, when the empty shell washes ashore on the beach.
In the wild, the survival rate of pāua from fertilised egg to adulthood is astonishingly low: one in 20 million. Most do not survive the early larval and post-settlement stages, due to environmental pressures, dependence on suitable seaweed, and intense predation. The very existence of a fully grown pāua is therefore a true feat of nature. Pāua meat is considered a delicacy in Aotearoa (New Zealand); customary and commercial gathering are carefully regulated. It is illegal to take a Pāua with a foot shorter than 125 mm, and shell for export can only be gathered by licensed commercial divers.